SquareMeal Review of
“What a find!” exclaims a fan of Bumpkin’s easy-going ‘country-meets-city’ vibe, its welcoming staff and earthy cooking. Inside, the rustic-chic decor may have seen better days, but the covered “secret garden” more than makes amends with its Astroturf, Formica tables, fairy lights and summertime marquee – perfect for whiling away Sunday afternoon with some roast beef and a few Bloody Marys. Food-wise, it’s all about big flavours, big helpings and seasonal British cuisine “at its very best”: game terrine with smoked bacon jam; foraged mushrooms with sourdough toast; salmon Wellington with samphire; haunch of venison with celeriac, cabbage and raisin gravy. Pies, cheeses and puddings such as apple crumble also wave the Union Jack, and some English bottles even sneak their way onto the wine list. We’re pleased to report that service seems to have picked up in recent months.