SquareMeal Review of
Bumpkin South Kensington
It may be billed as ‘your local British brasserie’, but this “classy” branch of the Bumpkin mini-chain feels like a gastropub by any other name. Stripped-wood floors, upbeat pop music and a blackboard advertising ‘what’s in season’ set the scene, while the dining room displays sepia prints of iconic British brands. It’s a studiously tasteful version of rustic, farmhouse chic for the tweed-clad ‘Chelsea tractor’ crowd. The open kitchen works to a flag-waving monthly menu – think artisan breads, Dorset cured meats and perky starters such as scallops with cauliflower purée and sorrel. After that, hefty mains usher in venison burgers, braised beef pie laced with oyster stout or line-caught cod with triple-cooked chips, while patriotic puds might include gingerbread and sherry trifle with candied ginger. Drinkers pack the bar for British beers, botanical cocktails and a terrific selection of English wines.