SquareMeal Review of
Tucked away in Cardiff’s “most affluent and fashionable suburb”, this tiny restaurant has earned a big reputation among Cardiff foodies – thanks largely to its “interesting” French-inspired cooking, admirable use of seasonal Welsh produce and carefully sourced Gallic wine list. It also has the “added attraction of a characterful owner” who oversees proceedings in the quirky, rustic dining room – note the pictures covering every inch of the wall space. The cooking shows enterprise and imagination across the board, from seared scallops with pea purée, broad beans, bacon crumb and pomegranate or pan-fried foie gras offset by pineapple and Monbazillac jelly, ginger biscuit and coconut to duck breast with confit leg, pomme Anna, heritage carrots and Buriat black cherry sauce or fillet of sea bass with Penclawdd cockles and pancetta in a spring vegetable broth. After that, desserts often provide a playful modern take on the classics – try the strawberry mille-feuille with strawberry textures and pistachio crumb. Sunday lunch is deemed “great value”, while couples do well with the fixed-price ‘French’ lunch and evening deals.