SquareMeal Review of
Bull in a China Shop
Intriguingly set behind a Dickensian-style frontage, this quirky, fun-loving, Asian-accented bar/restaurant is a new venture from the Chan brothers (behind the nearby Drunken Monkey). The kitchen produces healthier versions of dude food (including a panko-crumbed halloumi burger with harissa mayo and daikon), but the real star here is the sticky, succulent rotisserie chicken – brined with ginger and marinated in
yoghurt with a Nikka whisky glaze. Salads are
another highlight (we love the crunchy charred cauliflower version with fennel, apple and blood
orange), and there are bao buns for breakfast. Right on trend, the bar specialises in Japanese whisky, offering top drams and such fabulous cocktails as the Apricot Highball (a heady mix of Nikka from the barrel, apricot jam and apricot brandy topped up with soda water). Our tip: the table by the kitchen is the best seat in the joint.