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Its soundtrack of cocktails being shaken and pianists playing softly in the corner has made Brown’s a port of call for old romantics for more than 40 years. Even now, its classic good looks generally capture the buzz of a bustling brasserie rather than a nationwide chain. The menu doesn’t quite hit the heights, though it’s a useful, all-day offering that covers all bases from breakfast to afternoon tea, dinner and Sunday roasts. The classics of old have been tweaked, but there they are: Caesar salad, the Brown’s burger, pasta, steaks and suchlike. Other dishes are a little more ‘now’ – think scallops with cauliflower purée and curried cauliflower tempura, lobster with sea-herb mayonnaise or salted caramel profiteroles. Meanwhile, £10 set menus, £5 cocktails and reasonably priced wines from mainstream producers make Browns a not-just-for-special-occasions proposition.
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