SquareMeal Review of
Located in Tooley Street’s imposing former fire station, this ‘buzzy’, glass-fronted outfit does its bit for social responsibility while giving the local chains a run for their money. Head chef and
founder Simon Boyle is a ’truly inspirational character’ who set up Brigade in tandem with the charitable Beyond Food Foundation – offering vulnerable people six-month catering apprenticeships and
‘the tools for a brighter future’. The results of their labours might be restaurant-quality dishes ranging from Scotch egg and potted pork belly with apple chutney (‘worth a visit alone’) to John
Dory with herb-crusted clams, salsify and caper butter. With its orderly open kitchen, exposed brickwork, huge embossed lampshades and flashy cocktails at the bar, Brigade certainly knows how to
lure in swarms of London Bridge suits. There’s also a new wine club for purchases and tastings.
Brigade is recommended for