Will BrewDog, the Scottish indie-punk craft-brewing juggernaut, be able to tame a site that, in 2015, saw off Fourteenth Colonie and before that Giant Robot? Traces of both those defunct diners linger on in an interior that has been only lightly tweaked: different bar cladding here, a new neon sign there. The chain’s loyal following is drawn to this branch’s 18 taps of craft beers and its serious selection of bottled brews. Jack Hammer (a distinctly bitter IPA, said to ‘drill straight through your taste buds’) and Paradox Compass Box (a punchy, smoky, chocolate orange stout) were two among BrewDog’s uncompromising draughts available on our visit, with good drops from The Kernel Brewery and Somerset’s Wild Beer Co among the guests. Informal dining options include Pieminster pies; cheese or charcuterie boards; butternut-squash hummus with fig and rye crackers; and a selection of ice creams, frozen yoghurts and milk shakes.