SquareMeal Review of
It’s been going for 24 years now, but Simon and Jolanta Bradley’s restaurant looks sharp and contemporary. No foot has been taken off the pedal. Colours are mellow and natural, modern artworks strike a pose, and everything is up-to-date – not least Simon’s modern British cooking (‘with a French accent’, as he says himself). The great-value set menu acts as a pre-theatre option (for visitors to the nearby Hampstead Theatre), as well as a lunchtime opportunity and midweek bargain dinner. A well-chosen wine list holds plenty of choice under £30. The carte reveals the kitchen’s contemporary inclinations, with pumpkin tortellini matched with scorched onion (plus sage and Taleggio), and haunch of venison smoked in pine. Fresh fish comes up from Brixham – to be made into bourride of hake with salt-cod beignet, perhaps – and desserts are no less inviting, if the blackberry and apple soufflé is typical. All in all, a Hampstead stalwart.