SquareMeal Review of
Bourgee Bury St Edmunds
It’s lights, camera, action at this small chain of glamorous restaurants based in and around Essex – so expect “great food and a wonderful ambience”. The best time to visit is after dark, when the carefully placed lighting does full justice to the trompe l’oeil surfaces, sharp black bar and cosy curved booths. The menu’s twin focus is lobster and “steak, steak, steak” grilled in the Josper oven (choice cuts include a ‘tomahawk’ for two, luxurious Wagyu and daily specials). Other dishes that are cut above mere gimmicks include lobster ‘lollipops’, juicy burgers topped with caramelised onions, Monterey Jack and garlic butter, and cinnamon-dusted doughnuts presented in a paper bag. US-style brunch, a cracking kids’ menu and fairly priced set lunches keep Bourgee busy during the day, too. To drink, the short wine list goes big on bubbles. Prepare to indulge.