SquareMeal Review of
The best way to exhibit a work of art is to display it in a neutral environment that won’t detract from its intrinsic beauty. This must be why Bonhams, the auction house, has chosen to house its new modern British restaurant in an elegantly proportioned whitewashed space. As the venue is currently only open from breakfast to tea-time, the room is almost permanently flooded with natural light. The pared-down setting could feel unwelcoming, were it not for the warmth of the enthusiastic, professional front-of-house team. They have much to be enthusiastic about. The aristocratic wine list, sourced by in-house wine expert Richard Harvey MW, features a fine selection by the glass, and the refined, elegant food comes courtesy of up-and-coming chef Tom Kemble. Kemble’s stints at such cutting-edge restaurants as Sweden’s Fäviken and London’s Hedone are hinted at in a creative menu that includes a delicately flavoured carpaccio of scallops, mandarin and cucumber, and a punchy slow-cooked lamb neck with baba ganoush, calçot onions and red pepper compote. Save room for a lush slice of bitter chocolate tart, given a refreshing twist with a scoop of blood-orange sorbet. To our minds, Bonhams has unveiled a new masterpiece.