SquareMeal Review of
Bone Daddies Soho
"Confidently residing at the delectable end of the fast-food spectrum", this high-energy ramen joint continues to win fans – despite cramped, canteen-like conditions and a no-bookings policy. Head honcho Ross Shonhan knows how to conjure a magic mix of addictive flavours ("bone broth plus plastic bib equals noodle bliss", assures one fan), so bag a stool at one of the communal benches for a "delicious bowl of goodness". Sustenance arrives "lightning quick", and there's no shame in slurping your way through the different flavours – perhaps spicy miso with Padrón peppers or ground chicken with lip-tingling spice. The soundtrack often comprises "one soft-rock abomination after another", but snacks of soft-shell crab in high-octane chilli and ginger sauce or "unctuous" chashu pork and corn croquettes will keep you distracted. Strong cocktails make use of tangy yuzu, while shochu, whisky and saké take no prisoners.