SquareMeal Review of
THIS RESTAURANT IS CURRENTLY CLOSED FOR REFURBISHMENT
Designer-punk Alvin Leung (aka ‘the demon chef’) has already wowed them in Hong Kong, and is currently showing off his fabled ‘X-treme Chinese’ cooking to a London audience. Complex, dazzlingly
inventive tasting menus and X-rated prices are the main deal (the 14-dish version is tagged at a heart-stopping £128), although Leung has introduced a £60 carte for those happy to settle for less.
Look for startling seasonal blasts such as a three-way riff on tomatoes (including a marshmallow with green-onion oil), crispy sweetbread braised in oyster sauce with lotus root, sweet-and-sour
shallots and artichoke purée or kumquat-cured salmon with star anise coleslaw and green apple. Also brace yourself for ‘sex on the beach’, an under-the-counter extra comprising a (clearly used)
edible pink ‘condom’ on a ‘beach’ of biscuit-crumb. Alternatively, nibble on delicate dim sum and sip cocktails at the bar.