SquareMeal Review of
This is a real time-capsule restaurant from 2015: an on-trend, no-bookings pan-Asian/Mexican mash-up, with the emphasis on US street-food riffs and smoky BBQ flavours, co-owned by a chef/musician who studied at Glasgow School of Art. Eating together is the way to go: bag a big table or a high stool at the communal counter. Sadly, the food doesn't quite deliver on its rough-and-ready promise, although we enjoyed what we ate: quesadillas were layered with pokey kimchi, while smoked beef brisket came in a soft bao bun with crunchy cucumber and fried lotus root. We also recommend the sweetly lacquered smoked pork ribs and lamb cutlets in a sticky sauce with sesame seeds and sliced green chillis. Staff have bags of enthusiasm, but the food could do with more oomph by Soho's standards.