SquareMeal Review of
It may boast Indian owners (including the guy behind Hammersmith’s Potli), but don’t be fooled: Bistro Vadouvan deals in classic French dishes masterfully elevated with Middle Eastern and Asian spice. The room gives nothing away – electric-blue banquettes, a big open kitchen and quarry-tile flooring are welcoming yet unspectacular. However, from the first dish, we sat up and paid attention. Our steak tartare ranked among the most original we’ve had – adroitly seasoned chopped steak with diced spring onion and pickled chilli, layered on soft slivers of aubergine and topped with crunchy sliced almonds. Chef Durga Misra worked at Brasserie Chavot (RIP) and it shows in dishes such as soft brill with prawn ravioli in an umami-packed coconut broth, a creation that wouldn’t look out of place in a swanky West End destination. For dessert, we recommend Bistro Vadouvan’s pitch-perfect île flottante with candied nuts and caramel sauce. Excellent brunch and alfresco tables astride the river complete a tremendous package – “finally Putney Wharf has somewhere worth visiting”, cheers a fan.
Bistro Vadouvan is recommended for