SquareMeal Review of
New-wave fried chicken ventures have flocked to London – but we reckon there’s still room on the perch for Bird. Table service, cocktails and free-range fowls are features of this proto-chain. The latest opening is in Camden (following Islington and Shoreditch), where you’ll find industrial-style interiors and booth or bench seating. Start with Dirtybird cocktails (Prosecco, vodka, honey, ginger and fruit juice) before scoffing some sticky soy garlic-fried chicken wings. Then tuck into mains: chicken on waffles, chicken in a bun, or chicken in a bun made of waffles. Burgers are the best bet: juicy, moist, not massive, and well spiced. We opted for the ‘classic’, but there are numerous other iterations (such as the Gee Gee, with kimchi slaw). As for sides, the house ‘kewpie’ mayo is slightly cloying; and stick to plain fries over the cheesy Korean variety. Service is warm, quick and un-judging – ideal when indulging yourself here.