SquareMeal Review of
Billy & The Chicks
No, it’s not a smutty movie: it’s a Soho fried chicken joint with high prices. Chef Billy Stock has previous experience at St John, but for his solo debut he has indulged his childhood love of KFC. Pull up a wooden bar stool or chair in the graffiti-splattered, multi-roomed dining area and you’ll receive a burger and chips served on a paper plate – but you’ll pay at least double the price of run-of-the-mill fried chicken shacks. The burgers themselves are perfectly adequate: fat and moist chicken breast within a sweet and seed-speckled bun; or there are hot wings and macaroni cheese. Sidestep the tough, lean spare ribs and spend your money on classic cocktails instead; the bar staff can rustle up a mean Margarita. But with so many options in overstuffed Soho, you'd be clucking mad to pay a tenner for a burger, chips and gravy on a paper plate.