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No, it’s not a smutty movie: it’s a Soho fried chicken joint with high prices. Chef Billy Stock has previous experience at St John, but for his solo debut he has indulged his childhood love of KFC. Pull up a wooden bar stool or chair in the graffiti-splattered, multi-roomed dining area and you’ll receive a burger and chips served on a paper plate – but you’ll pay at least double the price of run-of-the-mill fried chicken shacks. The burgers themselves are perfectly adequate: fat and moist chicken breast within a sweet and seed-speckled bun; or there are hot wings and macaroni cheese. Sidestep the tough, lean spare ribs and spend your money on classic cocktails instead; the bar staff can rustle up a mean Margarita. But with so many options in overstuffed Soho, you'd be clucking mad to pay a tenner for a burger, chips and gravy on a paper plate.
It’s nice then, to see that the humble chicken has been getting a bit of a makeover lately, with the likes of CHICKENliquor in Brixton, Chooks in Muswell Hill, and Chick nSours in Dalston (Mother Cluckers and The Orange Buffalo are also pretty big on the food truck side of things, roaming about various London hotspots). Until recently though, there was nothing much on offer centrally…that is until Billy & The Chicks opened its doors in Soho in December.Tucked discretely down St Anne’s Court, a narrow through-way between Dean Street and Wardour Street, I was somewhat intrigued to see what was on offer. I absolutely...
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