Bill’s original branch in Lewes was part greengrocer selling homemade jams and organic vegetables from sacks, and part café serving hippy-friendly breakfasts and lunches to locals. That laid-back feel has since been (largely) replicated at venues across the country, via unvarnished wooden tables, mismatched chairs, vintage metal lights and dripping candles. There are a lot of attention-grabbing finds on the perky menu, from spiced crab and chickpea doughnuts with raita to sticky toffee-apple pork ribs with cider gravy – although die-hard fans keep it simple with the “great burgers” (try the on-trend buttermilk chicken version with creamy winter slaw and chipotle mayo). Dishes change regularly, reflecting the founder’s commitment to using fresh, seasonal ingredients. If your local branch can squeeze you in, you’re almost guaranteed a friendly welcome and “great atmosphere”; the only sticking point can be “inconsistent” service – a casualty of Bill’s success.