Bijou by name and bijou by nature, this is the very model of a neighbourhood eatery – utterly unpretentious and extremely good value, with a dedicated young chef at the helm and the option of BYO
(£2.50 corkage). Fry-ups, omelettes and bacon rolls satisfy the early birds, before the place goes into ‘sandwich bar’ mode – although the full bistro menu shows what can be done: most dishes are
available in three sizes (‘bijou’, ‘med’, ‘main’) and there are always plenty of familiar ideas such as burgers or smoked salmon fishcakes on display. However, it’s worth homing in on the
game-raising specials, which might promise bourbon-glazed smoked pork belly with rhubarb and puffed pig skin, shredded lamb with asparagus, quails’ eggs and wild garlic salad or pan-fried sea bream
with fennel, black olives, tomato and herb potatoes. You can also ring ahead for takeaways.