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After spending considerable time popping up across London (with or without their cute 1967 Fiat van), the indomitable Belpassi twins have set up a proper restaurant in Tooting. Their calling card is meatballs: what these guys don't know about them, isn’t worth knowing. Thankfully the recipe they've spent years perfecting remains unchanged; so expect textured balls — properly meaty and carefully seasoned — on a mix-and-match menu with different bases and sauces. Their classic is a pork and beef mix, which we paired with a spicy amatriciana sauce and pasta; but salt marsh lamb smothered in pesto was equally good. There are kale and chickpea balls for veggies, polenta or chilli greens instead of pasta and a well-sourced selection of cicchetti and salumi, including melting bresaola topped with Parmesan and rich chicken liver crostini. And did we mention the addictive meatball sandwich on brioche? The drinks list offers craft beers and decent Italian wines, with plans afoot for a proper basement bar (watch this space...). To give up the street food scene and put down proper roots takes a lot of balls, but that’s something these guys have in spades.
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