Beck at Brown's 1

Brown's Hotel, 34 Albemarle Street , London, W1S 4BP

0207 4936 6020

Visit Beck at Brown's

  • Beautifully presented seafood at Beck at Brown s
  • chef heinz beck standing in front of flowers at browns hotel in mayfair london
  • a bowl of pasta on a white tablecloth at browns hotel in mayfair london

SquareMeal Review of Beck at Brown's

Heinz Beck of La Pergola, Rome’s only Michelin three-star restaurant, is back in London, this time at Sir Rocco Forte’s distinguished Brown’s Hotel in Mayfair.


Beck, whose previous London showing was Apsleys at the Lanesborough, has relaxed his outlook a little here. Casual in the way that only a high-end Mayfair Italian is ‘casual’, Beck at Brown’s (which replaces Hix Mayfair in the hotel’s attractively refurbished wood-panelled grill room) invites diners to follow their own appetites. This could mean puffs of anchovy crostini with a Spritzer at aperitivo hour, a simple plate of tagliolini alle vongole at lunch, or a five-course tasting menu with matching wines for a celebration. Antipasti are elegant and easy; vitello tonnato (a little under-‘tunnied’ perhaps) comes with the nice addition of deep-fried caperberries and bluefin tuna with soy and seaweed.


Beck is best known for his pasta: the signature fagotelli (pasta parcels) have a hot liquid ‘carbonara’ centre that elevates a familiar standby into something spectacular, though the spaghetti cacio e pepe is not improved by the addition of lime-marinated raw prawns. Creative flourishes take a back seat in main courses such as sea bass with caponata or beef fillet with chicory and horseradish. To finish, choose seasonal ice creams or a 21st-century ‘affogato’ update on classic tiramisu. The restaurant’s white-jacketed waiters are from the old school – as are its eye-watering wine prices.


Beck at Brown's is recommended for

Formal | Glamorous | Quiet Conversation | Traditional | Widely Spaced Tables | Special Occasions Over 40S | Breakfast

Are you the restaurant owner?

Click here for Links & Logos

Nearby Tube/Rail Stations

Green Park Tube Station 357m

Piccadilly Circus Tube Station 591m

Address

Address: Brown's Hotel, 34 Albemarle Street , London W1S 4BP

Area: Mayfair Oxford Street

Opening times

Mon-Sun 7am-11pm (Sun -10.30pm)

Nearby Landmarks

Faraday Museum 62m

Medici Gallery 135m

Details

Telephone: 0207 4936 6020

Website:

Cuisine: Italian

Food & Drink:

Service:

Atmosphere:

Value:

Check out the SquareMeal Lists which include Beck at Brown's