SquareMeal Review of
Set in a ‘yee-haw’ cowpoke’s cabin, this late-night hoedown is the latest wheeze from Charlie Gilkes and Duncan Sterling (Bunga Bunga, Mr Fogg’s, etc) – purveyors of lurid theme bars to the Made in Chelsea party posse. Don your best Kenny Rogers and Dolly Parton gear for some line-dancing to the sound of DJs in the saloon bar, where Desperate Dan and Calamity Jane clones rustle up tiki bowls with a Tennessee twist (£30-700). Otherwise, shots, shooters, ‘hardshakes’, picklebacks, beers and boilermakers fuel Sloane Rangers and trust-fund Tontos on the town. Despite their hokey titles, premium hooch-packed cocktails such as Where the Buffalo Roam or One Night with the Sundance Kid (Tanqueray 10 gin, apple juice and Moët Brut Impérial) are no redneck rinses. As far as the Krug-chugging Beaver brigade is concerned, the Wild West begins at the Hammersmith flyover.