SquareMeal Review of
While his papa, Salvatore, presides next door, Gerry Calabrese has turned what was the Playboy Club’s Cottontail Lounge into something much sexier. His bijou pink and gold cabaret/
supperclub/wiggle room lures the sort of high-flying night owls that may have roosted at the Met Bar back in its Kate Moss heyday. Recent attractions such as Mark Ronson, Pete Tong and Grace Jones
are hardly your average nightclub ‘turns’, and you should expect to pay a premium. Prices for some of the world’s finest Champagnes are mind-blowing, even by Mayfair hedge-fund standards: around
£27K buys a 1990 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes, £950 gets a ‘coupe tower’ through which flow six litres of house fizz, while spirits by the bottle start at £180. Also be prepared to shell out
handsomely for Wagyu burger stacks (£125), lobster rolls and ‘profiterole lollies’. Advance table booking essential.