SquareMeal Review of
Now that word has got out, it’s not so easy to bag a table at this dinky sushi joint, so phone ahead. Why the popularity? It’s Atari-ya’s flipping fresh fish – the quality soars above what you’ll
find at chain sushi joints, but not the prices. Glossy slivers of tuna, salmon, yellowtail and mackerel are neatly lined up on wooden boards with mounds of wasabi and pickled ginger. Sushi
aside, there’s much else to please: deep-fried halibut is like a fishy version of agedashi tofu in a soft, fragrant broth; chicken yakitori come as tasty little skewers; and the tempura has all
the requisite crispness without any grease. Drink draught Asahi or warm saké and be sure to bring cash: you’ll want to reward the obliging staff, but tips aren’t accepted on credit cards.