SquareMeal Review of
Anderson & Co
Transpose the traditional Parisian bistro experience to a modern London setting and you’d pretty much recreate the after-hours deal here. By day, Anderson & Co is a popular neighbourhood café with tiny, tightly packed tables and friendly, homely service. Come the evening, though, the atmosphere is mellowed by low-lit bare bulbs and flickering candles, and a short menu of pan-European dishes is produced using modish ingredients: from spelt wheat to salted caramel. Standout starters include tender pieces of delicately deep-fried globe artichoke, while mains run from nicely cooked onglet with chunky, well-seasoned chips to succulent pan-fried black bream drenched in fragrant rosemary butter. Don’t miss the phenomenal desserts: Bakewell tart with crisp pastry and a rich, warm filling; banoffee pie served in a cute cup. The short, good-value drinks list offers decent food-friendly wines plus local lager – quality that’s coming to be expected on this restaurant-rich stretch of Peckham.