SquareMeal Review of
From the people behind nearby Bravas Tapas (who were once some of the people behind high-rolling Hakkasan), this ‘nikkei’ nook offers Japanese food cooked the Peruvian way – reflecting just one of the directions that the Nippon diaspora has taken of late. At Amaru, this is exemplified by artfully presented appetisers such as steamed edamame with togarashi chilli salt and aji Amarillo dip, or a salad of quinoa and pomegranate with truffle, balsamic and avocado. Given the ‘softs-only’ drinks policy (they’re big on teas) and the lack of space in the pokey, rather soulless dining room, it’s hardly surprising that some locals prefer the takeaway option. It’s our feeling, however, that fastidiously assembled dishes such as Peruvian cured beef rolls with wasabi, sweet potato and onion escabèche, or oysters on the half shell with rocotto chilli sorbet, saké and Tequila mignonette, don’t deserve to be boxed-up and schlepped home.