SquareMeal Review of
When he’s not tending to his other ventures (White Lyan, Dandelyan, The Fount at Selfridges), renowned mixologist Ryan Chetiyawardana is likely to be found at this standalone bar in chef Anna Hansen’s City branch of Modern Pantry. The room suggests a Nordic airport circa early Abba: brightly lit, Scandi-style blonde woods, with pressed flora and pine cones as art. Nevertheless, what Alpha Beta lacks in lounge-lizard appeal is compensated for by the botanical-inspired cocktails that use spices and ingredients integral to Hansen’s fusion cooking. A highlight of the appealing, well-priced bar snacks is the omelette stuffed with dhansak masala minced veal. Killer combos include mini brioche buns stacked with smoked mussels, crab and guacamole, paired with Iranian Gimlet – both ideas flavoured with dried Iranian lime. Twisted aperitivo-hour classics (an Aperol Spritz prepared with black Moscato and hibiscus, for instance) and interesting Highballs are further reasons to make a beeline here.