SquareMeal Review of
Situated on the ground floor of Ian and Christa Taylor's refurbished hotel, just a stone's throw from Bath's historic abbey and Roman baths, Allium creates quite an impression with its long drapes, bamboo-framed chairs, samurai statuettes and colourful table settings. It also provides a suitably exotic backdrop for a self-proclaimed ‘culinary road trip’ that gives British ingredients a global spin. Seared fillet of Cornish mackerel with beetroot chutney and horseradish cream flies the flag for Britain, while braised beef rib with watermelon, chilli, stir-fried vegetables and black pepper glaze represents the orient. After that, expect anything from beer-battered haddock to soy-marinated portobello mushrooms with roasted iron-bark pumpkin or roast cod with cauliflower, white beans and chorizo jam. To finish, try frozen coconut mousse with mango, pineapple and passion fruit or caramel pannacotta with gingerbread, popcorn, apple and custard cream. Well-selected wines, terrific-value set menus and classy afternoon teas earn bonus points.
Former Hotel Wine List Of The Year
If this hotel is as elegant and cheerfully helpful as its wine list it should be on the itinerary of any visitor to Bath. Wines are split into easily comprehensible style categories and the tasting notes that accompany every wine are helpful, enthusiastic and personal. Moreover, there’s evidence throughout of careful buying, backed up by keen pricing. ‘There’s evidence here of real consideration,’ praised consultant Christopher Cooper, who was one of the judges.