SquareMeal Review of
Aglio e Olio
Every night is as busy as the next at Aglio e Olio, and the reason why affluent Fulhamites (including plenty of Italians) converge on this grey-walled, canteen-style dining room is mainly because of the pasta: the ever-popular orecchiette with broccoli and Italian sausage, fusilli with meatballs or rigatoni with broad beans, porcini and pancetta, for example. The results from the open kitchen are invariably "fresh, simple and tasty", but good ingredients are paramount – from grilled sardines, beef carpaccio and the standout veal milanese ("one of the best in London") to seasonal specials such as globe artichoke with lemon dressing. Service is sometimes accused of brusqueness, but that's all part of the cut-and-thrust charm of this bustling little place.