SquareMeal Review of
Adam Reid at The French
Simon Rogan’s much publicised departure at the end of 2016 seems to have had no noticeable impact on proceedings at The French – thanks to the efforts of head chef Adam Reid. Though the opulent decor within The Midland’s grand dining room hasn’t changed, eating here feels less formal than before – but no less impressive, with Reid stamping his own distinctive mark on proceedings. Readers rave about “flawless food”, and we’ve had our share of thrilling encounters too – from nibbles of tempura-style sprouting broccoli dipped into oozing Tunworth cheese with luxurious fresh truffle shavings to a superbly executed dish of heather-smoked duck with earthy salt-baked beetroot and sweet-yet-sharp preserved cherry sauce. Other standouts have a noticeable North Country accent (think crispy pig’s trotter with blood cake and smoked sausage or Lancashire ‘tasty’ cheese and onion tart with lovage and eel), while Reid’s award-winning ‘Golden Empire’ dessert is a cracker – the golden candy apple adorned with hazelnut crumble and meadowsweet custard. Meanwhile, “fabulous” service ensures a stunning gastronomic experience without any fine-dining stuffiness. An utter joy.