SquareMeal Review of
A Little of What You Fancy
Those who knew the Kingsland Road of old will have a hoot when they read the menu here. Heritage tomatoes, English asparagus with 24-month Parmesan, shakshuka, Stoke Newington-smoked salmon… what
has happened to Dalston? It’s found itself a decent restaurant, that’s what. Chef and owner Elaine Chalmers has cooked at Dalston Superstore & Shoreditch Electricity Showrooms, so knows how
hipsters eat, but she’s also a true foodie who ‘cooks what she likes, using ingredients she’s proud of’. The shabby chic ‘small- scale operation’ starts the day with breakfast sarnies & eggs various ways, before bringing on the sandwiches, cakes and salads, followed by dinner service when chicken liver parfait, pan-fried squid & fennel salad and Kitty Travers’ gorgeous ice
creams hold sway. Staff ‘use the restaurant as a catwalk’, but are ‘very friendly’. To drink, there’s Kernel Brewery beer & a brief list of biodynamic & organic wines.