SquareMeal Review of
64 Degrees Pimlico
Two lustrous stars of Brighton, the Artist Residence Hotel and top restaurant 64 Degrees, have opened a joint venture in Pimlico. With its bare-brick walls, wooden bench seating and dangling light fittings, this is no typical hotel dining room. The space is dominated by an open kitchen; pull up a stool and watch the enticing ingredients-led small plates being prepared. Amuse your bouche with a couple of oysters, or crisp gyoza stuffed with lightly spiced lobster. Flavour combinations are unusual yet mostly successful: witness halibut with cinnamon and a tangy pickle, or a happy medley of textures and tastes in granola, curd, fried sage and butternut squash. A massive ox tongue is fall-apart delicious but salty, especially alongside its bacon accompaniment – our only complaint. Realign your taste buds with banana, malt ice cream and sweet, salty miso, then descend to the basement cocktail bar, 64 Degrees Below, for something fruity.