SquareMeal Review of
40 Maltby Street
The secret is out. This boutique wine shop/ bar/bistro, once a favoured hangout of the Bermondsey dining cognoscenti, is now frequented by discerning oenophiles from across the capital. Occupying
one of the railway arches along increasingly foodie Maltby Street, it also serves limited lunches and dinners to complement its succinct range of natural wines from France, Italy and Slovenia.
Around six are open at any time, so pick a glass or buy a bottle for a flat £12 mark-up on the shop prices – the full-flavoured Sangiovese from Tuscan producer, Pacina, is a great match for the
gutsy Mediterranean-style food on offer. Roast chicken with chanterelles is a rib-sticking delight, while egg mayo with anchovies is an exercise in simplicity and top-notch ingredients. No
bookings, so arrive early to bag a table.