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From the prosaic name to the determinedly plain decor, everything about this pint-sized Soho favourite is purely functional – apart from the food and wine, that is. The short, daily changing menu “always pleases”, pulling in ideas from Western Europe to point up its larder of British ingredients. You might find chicken hearts and livers with Brussels sprouts, Marsala and sage, Tamworth pork partnered with savoy cabbage and a scattering of soft pancetta or plump hake and spinach given extra bite with some dense chorizo. An all-day selection of smaller plates keeps things simple (think salted Padrón peppers, crumbed pig’s trotters or smoked mackerel with fennel), while adding some flashes of colour to the black-and-white room. You can reserve a table for lunch (“perfect”, says one fan), but dinner is no-bookings only: if you’re willing to queue, however, the wine list helps to spin out an evening with its brilliantly affordable selection from across the globe.
On its own, the informal ‘main’ list for this Soho eatery is an impressive bit of work. Tightly chosen, it stuffs more good and interesting bottles into its 40 bins than many lists 10 times the size, with a terrific selection available either by the glass or half-bottle. Add to this the ever-changing selection of ‘fine wines’ – hand-written and snapped up in tiny quantities, and it’s a list that’s as innovative, informal and quirky as the clientele.
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This cosy private room is tucked downstairs, accommodating up to 12 guests for a seated meal. The menu changes each month, and is served family-style, for the whole table to share. The evolving wine list is available with a selection by the bottle, carafe and glass. There’s also the Black Book of Wine, highlighting a selection of hard-to-find wines from private cellars and collections, with options both by the bottle and glass. The room also has a Sonos speaker system, with the restaurant happy to play a personalised playlist or select one of its own.
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