Mother's Day at Brasserie Roux

On Mother’s day there will be live jazz playing between 12.30 and 3pm, accompanying a brunch of spicy crab cake with sweetcorn salsa or mango mustard-glazed salmon with pineapple rice. Two courses cost £29, three £34 (both including a glass of champagne).

With its impeccable gastronomic credentials & imposing Pall Mall hotel-based setting, one expects Brasserie Roux to be a grand affair, a notion not dispelled by the spacious, high-ceilinged dining room with its decidedly clubbish feel. What’s striking, however, is the excellent-value dining at decidedly ungrand prices on offer. The menu reads like a roll-call of brasserie classics – boudin noir, braised duck confit with turnips, pig’s trotter & excellent French fries – with dishes universally offering depth of flavour & elegance of presentation, even for the ‘excellent value’ pre- & post-theatre menus. Albert Roux is often to be found dining here, checking all is just so. The only facet that he hasn’t quite got sorted is the service that currently ranges from ‘attentive’, ‘enthusiastic’ & ‘professional’ to ‘hurried’ & ‘shoddy’.