Family-run Kaosarn has been a hit on Brixton Market thanks to its lively canteen vibe, punchy “home-cooked” Thai food and knockdown prices, but it’s gone slightly upmarket for this equally popular outlet in Battersea. The “beautifully lit” premises, a “lovely host” and the odd new dish on the menu (look for the deep-fried whole sea bass with spicy green mango salad and ground peanuts) helps fill the dining-room, but what really creates the buzz is the BYO policy which applies no corkage charge. Otherwise, all the favourites are here – from satays, crispy soft-shell crab and tom yum soup to green curries, stir-fried beef with chilli and basil (topped with a fried egg) or Bangkok-style kuay tiew noodles in soup. It's all terrific value, and despite “borderline terrible [or stretched] service”, one local insists she’ll be “going back regularly forever”. She's not the only one.