Situated in a cavernous underground space off Charlotte Street, this new Italian is currently in its teething stage but already shows flashes of promise on a menu that doesn’t stray far from osteria classics. Much thought (and money) has been thrown at the design, with plush circular booths, bare dark wood and modern brass chandeliers all set in front of a long open kitchen. We began with a spritely octopus and potato salad and a decent Parmigiana, but sadly a main of seafood linguine – with thick pasta and dull tomato sauce – and a signature osso buco with unexciting mashed potato, both disappointed. Our meal ended well, though, with creamy, coffee-laden tiramisu. Prices are reasonable for the area, and we can imagine the place is buzzy when busy. A handsome bar area was still gearing up on our visit so we couldn’t test the cocktails, but there are a bargains to be had on the short yet strong wine list.