Coya City

Mayfair, the UAE… and now the Square Mile: diners in the world’s well-heeled honeypots can’t get enough of Arjun Waney’s Peruvian spin on his phenomenally successful Zuma concept.

Here in the Square Mile, softer acoustics make for a more-relaxed mood than at the ear-splitting original on Piccadilly, but otherwise the formula is pretty much the same: a bar serving lethal cocktails, a dining room decorated in a colour-supplement approximation of South American chic, and a menu of small sharing plates that ticks off the continent’s culinary greatest hits: ceviche and steak, tacos and tiraditos.

There was no faulting the quality of any of the ingredients we ate, but much of the subtlety was drowned out by the sort of assertive seasoning that suggested that this is food that needs to shout through the fog of a third Pisco Sour.

Skewers of springy ox heart with red pepper and parsley, and spicy beef fillet with shallots and star anise, both alas tasted mainly of their very savoury accompaniments.

Our fish dishes were better: soft-fleshed tuna ceviche with sesame, and a pretty arrangement of kingfish tiradito with truffle oil, had been dressed with restraint.

Best of all were tender tamarind-glazed pork ribs stacked like a pile of Jenga and festooned with fresh chilli and cashew nuts – as well as the avocados pounded together in a pestle and mortar at the table to make fresh guacamole.

But the most memorable thing about our meal was the friendliness of the staff, especially our charming sommelier who was as happy to recommend saké as Sauvignon to match the riot of South American flavours in the food.  

Coya is ideally located in the City of London, in the heart of the buzzing financial district, and has built a reputation itself through its glamorous aesthetic and innovative Peruvian dishes.

The decor combines a contemporary lime green seating and striking light features, with some more authentic furnishings and wooden accents throughout. Enjoy some small plates at the bar, or relax in the main dining room and work your way through the menu, with plenty of cocktails to wash it down with.

On the menu you’ll find traditional Inca flavours with a twist, available as a la carte or set menus. Whilst the menu changes on a regular basis, you’ll always be able to decide between various sections across the a la carte menu, including appetisers, anticuchos (marinated meat skewers), salads, citrus cured fish and Peruvian style sashimi, as well as a plethora of fish, meat and vegetables.

Desserts are an equally tempting selection of Peruvian inspired dishes, from deeply indulgent chocolate flavours to lighter fruity alternatives. No matter what you choose to go for, you’ll not be disappointed with the selection of dishes to finish your meal.

It’s just as much about the cocktails here as it is the food, so it’s vital you try some specials from the Pisco Bar - where inspiration has been drawn from some of Lima’s oldest bars. With a team of mixologists on hand, you can delve into some Coya signatures, Peruvian classics, and localised specials. Of course if cocktails aren't your thing, you'll also find a carefully curated list of wines, spirits and beers available.

Perfect for date nights as much as it is celebrating with friends, Coya is a no brainer when you’re in the city.