A textbook boutique hotel from its wood-burning stoves to its Melin Tregwynt blankets, Llys Meddyg is noted for its comfortable surroundings and upmarket food. The dining room, once classically elegant, has recently been transformed with swathes of reclaimed wood panelling, industrial lighting and schoolroom radiators. It’s quirky, cosy and less staid than before, but that’s not the only change: a bright new local lad with a good pedigree has stepped into the kitchen, bringing his own style to Llys Meddyg’s ‘informal fine dining’ ethos. Local produce remains to the fore in dishes such as confit duck with a crispy skin and mulled pomegranate, butter-roasted halibut with smoked mussels and red wine sauce or poached pear with fig carpaccio, hazelnuts and clementine ice cream. Expect clear flavours, fresh ingredients and a winning touch of invention.