The Lighterman

An impressive, three-storey modernist addition to Granary Square, this new pub-cum-dining room is furnished in an inviting, understated style with abundant natural wood and stylish leather. It is owned by a sister company to upmarket pub group Cubitt House – as evidenced by a menu incorporating many gastropub favourites. Even on a Monday, the street-level bar was abuzz with chatter, though the first-floor restaurant is a more formal proposition with wraparound terrace, floor-to-ceiling windows and friendly staff. Fish & chips and lamb shank are main-course fixtures, but the wood-fired grill is clearly the intended star, producing various seared cuts of meat, seafood dishes and burgers. Starters are generous; our cured trout with cucumber, spring onion and spiced mayo was wonderfully fresh-tasting, if heavily spiced. Unfortunately, a main course of Aberdeen Angus beef fillet arrived distinctly less rare than requested, paired with an over-seasoned peppercorn sauce. Roasted cod with celeriac purée, fennel and pumpkin seeds fared better, being flavoursome and light. The large drinks list has an eye on current trends, encompassing orange wine, craft ales and seasonal cocktails. 

If you’ve wandered into Coal Drops Yard, the fashionable restaurant and shopping quarter by King’s Cross, you’ll have spied The Lighterman. One of the first restaurants rising to meet the eye as you cross into this gentrified hub, its sleek exterior, boasting Brutalist-esque architecture and floor-to-ceiling glass windows, stands out immediately. And, it’s a nod to the experience that can be enjoyed inside; The Lighterman is a contemporary pub concept with a modern British menu and a be-seen atmosphere. 

The menu is generally all-day dining, with some special dishes at the weekend. To start, the flatbreads are somewhat of a speciality, cooked in a clay oven. There are toppings such as Suffolk chorizo, fennel, smoked mozzarella and chilli, as well as asparagus, pea and lovage pesto with macadamia cheese. Other starters include Lighterman's fried chicken with chilli and lime, British burrata with orange and toasted walnuts, and British charcuterie with toast and chutney. 

Classic mains tick off some gastro-pub classics but with a decidedly Lighterman twist - Hake and chips come with crushed peas and homemade tartar, chicken schnitzel is accompanied by confit tomato, rocket and Parmesan, and the Lighterman burger includes smoked Cheddar, bacon and fries. 

Carnivores will enjoy the grill selection which offers up the likes of Saltmarsh lamb cutlets with green beans, 32 day aged rare breed sirloin and grilled prawns with tomato and garlic salsa, all cooked on open coals. And, whether your taste is more fresh and zingy or rich and indulgent, the pudding menu aims to please. Think rhubarb and ginger pavlova with vanilla bean yoghurt; warm cinnamon doughnuts with berry compote and tonka bean ice cream; or chocolate and peanut butter tart with salted caramel ice cream. 

At the weekend, feast on the brunch selection with pancakes piled high with tasty toppings, eggs any way you like and those delicious flat breads. The team recommend topping everything off with a Bloody Mary, of which there are many types.