Based on Southbank’s Upper Ground, this collaboration between the National Theatre and Coin Street Community Builders is ideal for a pre-theatre bite. It won’t be around forever, however, as in five years the site will be redeveloped. The lofty inside is full of theatre props. Virtuousness permeates the place, from water glasses made of recycled wine-bottle bottoms to the sustainable garden maintained by volunteers. Modern brasserie food fills the menu, starting with ‘pick it up’ nibbles such as salt-cod croquettes and hot Lincolnshire Poacher rarebit – tasting as good as they sound. ‘Knife and fork’ mains are piggy delights: whether roasted pumpkin risotto, or those comfiest of comfort foods: 100% pork hot dog, or slow-roasted baby-back ribs. Chocolate and caramel baked Alaska, with a gooey, chewy meringue coating, was the standout dessert. Charming, informed staff, well-chosen beers and cocktails, and plentiful wines by the glass ensured we left longing to return.