Nahm at The Halkin (The Halkin, 5 Halkin Street, London, SW1X 7DJ) Of course, I have the advantage of knowing David Thompson in Australia. I rang him to make a special menu for me and my friends. I didn't need to. The standard menu was special. If you just knew this guy and what he has done for Thai Cuisine, you would then understand just how impossible it is to write a bad review of the London Nahm. Not many non-Thais would have the nerve to open a Thai restaurant in Bangkok. Anyway, my view of the vast majority of less than perfect reviews is that they are not at all aware of the different styles of Thai cuisine, that the dishes are ALWAYS served together even on formal occasions in Thailand. David has studied the Thai language, covered the countryside interviewing the Grandmas for their secret recipies. Many Thais that I met when working in Thailand will not eat “hot” food. It is really very difficult to combine authenticiity with the average British palate. but enough of that, now my experience at the Nahm. There is no point in going overboard about the careful integration of spices, textures and balance. Thais are always careful to balance acidity, chilli, salt, and sugar with a variety of textures. Soup is a must. Interestingly chicken green curry (gaeng keow wan gai) is rarely eaten by the Thai populace and its absence no surprise to me. Thus David's menu for us was just a matter of absolute perfection. My guests were totally uneducated aboutThai authenticity, one very fearful of spicy strange food, but both were absolutely blown away and wondered how they would ever eat at a suburban Thai restaurant again!
Link to this review21 November 2011 |