Vinoteca has a slightly raffish charm fostered by knockabout wooden tables and blackboards scrawled with the names of the current vins du jour. This sets the tone for a relaxed and informal occasion. But don’t be fooled into thinking the food is anything but informed. Vinoteca’s kitchen is certainly on good form at the moment, with an emphasis on full throttle flavour rather than fancy presentation. Char-grilled squid, chilli and mint gremolata delivers delicious respectful flacour with just the righ amount of pep with tomatoes adding a pleasant herbaceous character. Lamb, olive and aubergine ragu with terrific parmesan gnocchi and oregano was yielding and rich and completely moreish. A paradigm of the modern wine bar.