34 is certainly a slick, professional operation. It’s nice looking too, with lots of natural light at lunchtime and a flattering warm glow in the evening – Terry Wogan looked great in it! Food is bang on trend with its range of steaks flaunted in an appealing, user-friendly menu that also touts posh brasserie alternatives like grilled octopus with roseval potatoes and chorizo, and cep, truffle and prosciutto lasagne. Wines by the carafe and by the glass add further appeal.
But there’s something quite corporate about the room, and the prices reflect this too. Besides the £4.35 sides and £2 cover charge, an unpriced Halibut ‘special’ at just under £40 is steep.
Nevertheless the buzz and people-watching are compelling. And the restaurant has certainly hit the ground running – it looks like it’s been here for years, a myth the staff do little to dispel.