Aqua must have one of the most dramatic entrances in London, with a real “wow” factor. A dedicated lift takes you to the top floor restaurant, where you are met by attractive friendly staff. We were shown around, and then taken to the roof terrace. It was warm enough to sit out for a drink on the stylish and comfortable outdoor sofas, feeling thousands of miles away from London. There are some interesting and unusual drinks, such as champagne with lychee juice, and non alcoholic mango cocktail.

An equally dramatic corridor leads to Aqua Nueve, where the entrance was guarded by a brooding black bull sculpture. The food is inspired by Northern Spanish cooking. The flavours are modern, delicate and sophisticated. Baby squid were tiny and very tender, served in a light squid ink broth. I then had pork neck, whose meat had been removed from the bones and formed into medallions which might have been found in a far more expensive restaurant. Dessert of apple jelly and apple ice cream was original and elegant.

The wine list is very good value. The wine waiter recommended Nora Neve at £24, an unctuous rounded white reminiscent of gascon wines. I checked it the next day, and found that it retails at £21. That must be the lowest mark up in London.

Overall, a very classy addition to the London scene.