I am not a fan of Mr Ramsay and his television chefery. I was therefore in a slightly perverse way hoping to find fault with his flagship restaurant. I didn't. The food was astonishingly good. My dining companion had a Meg Ryan moment when she tasted her quail ravioli. The room is pleasant enough in a Chelsea sort of way. It's well worth requesting a round table for two if you like a bit more personal space. Service was faultless although the staff will automatically assume that you are retarded. That is because many of your fellow diners will be. I can only assume that a number of people go there not because they want to sample the delights of a three star kitchen at the top of its game but because it belongs to ‘that bloke off the telly’. Anyway once you've had a chuckle at the woman on the table next to you asking if Gordon cooked her scallops and the staff have ascertained that you won't send your medium rare venison back because it's ‘not cooked properly’ then the whole experience is a treat.