Tom Aikens (43 Elystan Street, London, London, SW3 3NT) I visited Tom Aiken's with my girlfriend a couple of months ago and had high expectations. Sadly, I left feeling a little disappointed. I'll keep this short and sweet; the service was fine and everything is very well presented, all the staff were professional without being particularly interested, warm or endearing, the food arrived in a timely fashion and the general ambiance of the restaurant was pleasant, if a little stale. What I felt just a little let down by was the food itself. It's not that anything served was poorly cooked, quite the contrary, but many of the dishes were simply unbalanced and seemed to have been concocted by someone lacking a particularly sophisticated palate. For example, I had fois gras to start and aside from being barely able to taste the sliver of fois gras I was given, the over-riding flavour on the plate was one of sugar – this from the small cubes of jellied sugar that came dotted around the plate. My partner had risotto, which we found to be a stodgy mess in a dish, completely overpowered by the egg at it's centre. For main, I chose veal chop with lemon mash and roasted artichoke. The mash and artichoke were stunning and held absolutely heavenly flavours, however, this made the veal pale in comparison. It was perfectly well cooked but was totally overawed by the other flavours on the plate. My partner had loin of lamb marinated in ewes cheese which was so-so and once again was dominated by the flavour of cheese. For dessert I plumped for crème brulee which was very nice . Girlfriend had vanilla pannacotta with white chocolate and black pepper. This was one of the very worst desserts I have ever tasted. The whole dish was completely dominated by the taste of black pepper and also of the N2O gas from the foam. Frankly, it made both of us feel more than a little sick. After this fairly underwhelming dining experience, we then had cognac, dessert wine and a selection of cheeses. The selection of beverages and cheese is very comprehensive…
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Link to this reviewOctober 2010 |