I've been going for dim sum to Royal China at least once or twice a month for the last 12 years and there's never a flicker of recognition from any of the longer-serving staff. But no matter, you're not here for the service — tho it is a lot better than many Chinatown places — nor are you here for the decor unless your most treasured cultural reference is Jackie Collins' “The Stud”. You're here for what is probably the best dim sum in London. The queues, however annoying they may be, are testament to that. Go for a weekday if you can because the weekend rush is not for the fainthearted. You go in, get a number and then wait in a small area by the bar with loads of people who have never heard the word “orderly”. They'll probably have a stroller in tow too. The food makes it worth the 40-minute wait. Sesame paper prawn rolls are just right, not greasy at all. The same is true for the Roast Pork Puff and the steamed dim sum like prawn and coriander or prawn and chive explode with fresh flavour. All for about 15 pounds a head. Things can get more expensive in the evening when the whole place becomes much smarter (in its black and gold kind of way) but the food — mostly standard Cantonese fare — remains top-notch and well worth seeking out among Queensway's many Chinese restaurants.