The Botanist (7 Sloane Square, London, London, SW1W 8EE) I’ve been meaning to eat at The Botanist for quite some time but never seemed to find an opportunity to make it there. Every time I drive past it’s teeming with slick-looking Chelsea chaps and attractive blondes sipping on cocktails and chain-smoking Marlboro Lights. Today is no exception; we fight our way through the packed main bar to get to the restaurant which, happily, is a much more calm and less hectic affair. The menu is not over-complicated with just a handful of dishes for each course, I kick-start the meal with mmarinated scallops and potatoes with hazelnuts and truffled mayonnaise and my companion opts for the Foie gras and chicken liver parfait with toasted brioche. My scallops dish is essentially raw but cooked by the acidity of the marinade, which is lovely and subtle and doesn’t overpower the delicate slivers of scallops. Crunchy sugar coated hazelnuts and sliced new potatoes are pleasant, although I would have preferred a simple marinated scallop starter with just a little of the mayonnaise. The Foie gras and chicken liver parfait is delicious with a vanilla and raspberry vinaigrette to cut through rich, almost buttery goodness of the parfait. I choose a simple main course of gently poached wild cod with aioli which is simply plated and dotted with bursts of almost neon-green broad beans and has an intense garlic punch from the aioli, making it a perfectly satisfying dish for spring. My companion doesn’t do fish and chooses instead the 35 day aged Angus rib-eye steak with chips and Béarnaise sauce which hits the spot nicely, although the meat seems to have lost some of its heat en-route from kitchen to table, it is still enjoyed. Staff are friendly and allow us time to digest our main before offering us dessert, which is always a good move and doesn’t make you feel hurried. The warm chocolate cake with pistachio praline ice cream is calling for me and I persuade my companion to go for the white chocolate and honeycomb parfait with strawberry compote…
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Link to this reviewMay 2010 | | Overall: | 7 |
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| Food and Drink: | 7 |
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| Service: | 8 |
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| Atmosphere: | 8 |
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| Value for Money: | 7 |
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Mohsen (152 Warwick Road, London, W14 8PS) A favourite of many Iranians across town, Mohsen was once the best restaurant forPersian Kebab in town, but these days I do what I can to avoid it. It's not to say that the food isn't good but there is no consistency, the owners wife who manages it can be very heavy handed and forceful and sometimes the food just isn't up to scratch. There are, in my opinion, my better destinations for having great Persian food in London, but there will always be a mixed roar of opinions from us Iranian folk. Nevertheless, if you are in the area and want to eat a decent meal, then you shouldnt let my personal opinion deter you. Sunday lunch is the best time to go here, it is heaving, which usually means service is in full swing. Dont feel pressured if the bill is placed on your table, frankly having ruined a date I had a few years ago, I would actually ignore it until you feel ready to go.
Link to this reviewMay 2010 | | Overall: | 6 |
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| Food and Drink: | 6 |
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| Service: | 5 |
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| Atmosphere: | 5 |
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| Value for Money: | 7 |
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Pétrus (1 Kinnerton Street, London, London, SW1X 8EA) Gordon Ramsay’s latest opening comes in the shape of the re-vamped and re-located Petrus restaurant. The new location is so discreet that you could miss it, which in fact exactly what happened but I found it eventually. The décor is as you would expect of a Ramsay restaurant, plush with deep red fabric-covered walls and stylish cream chairs which are surprisingly comfortable. The A La Carte menu offers 3 courses for £55.00, the Chef’s 5 course tasting menu comes in at £65.00 but the real value is lunch menu which is priced at just £25.00 for 3 courses but could it be too good to be true? I have never been a big fan of set lunch menus as they are a bit of a cop-out at times but I want to see exactly what £25.00 buys you at a Gordon Ramsay restaurant these days so I decide to go for it. With Head Chef Sean Burbridge at the helm under the watchful eye of Group Executive Head Chef Mark Askew, my expectations are high. Two little cones of popcorn are placed on the table, one seasoned with lemon and pepper and the other with smoked paprika, neither of which is my thing. Popcorn is not something I want to begin a restaurant meal with, it is awkward, chewy and always gets stuck in my teeth, which is fine if you are in the dark at a cinema but picking your teeth at the table of a any restaurant is something my mother taught me never to do. An Amuse Bouche is served but for the life of me, I simply cannot recall what it was but I do remember liking it. For my starter, I go with the curried pollock fillet with braised lentils and cauliflower soup and my guest goes for the crab and salmon cannelloni. I do love cauliflower, especially in soup form and if it comes with fish and lentils, then even better. The crab and salmon cannelloni is beautifully presented in all its cylindrical glory, but for me the earthy curry spice of the pollock worked beautifully and paired with the velvety-smooth cauliflower soup it was the clear winner of the two dishes. My only gripe would be that they were…
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Link to this reviewMay 2010 | | Overall: | 7 |
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| Food and Drink: | 8 |
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| Service: | 8 |
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| Atmosphere: | 6 |
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| Value for Money: | 7 |
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Hache (329-331 Fulham Road, London, London, SW10 9QL) I have only ever been to Hache a handful of times, largely because when I do get time on the weekends to eat there, the place turns into a Kid's nursery and the accoustics, coupled with the screams and loud yapping of other peoples little darlings, become just too much for me to cope with. The service has never been entirely friendly nor efficient, however they did always have one of the best burgers around. I went back again yesterday and the restaurant was less than half full. We ask for a ‘comfortable’ table and the waiter looks at me and actually has the nerve to say “As you can see we are quite packed…” – which I thought was more than laughable, but I was in no mood to argue. Despite oodles of comfortable banquette seating in various sections of the restaurant, he plonks us down on literally the worst table he could find, sandwiched in between two large parties and, rather more annoyingly, a pillar. Great. Anything that we needed, included menus, ordering of food and drinks, condiments and extra napkins, we had to stop what we were doing to grab his attention as no doubt we would never have gotten to even see a menu! I order my usual Catalan burger, which is a normal beef burger topped with Chorizo and chutney with a side of Hache ‘Frites’… And from what I can remember, the food was always good here. What arrived was anything other than good. Chewy, not crispy mock-frites and a beast of a burger cooked for much longer than needed for ‘medium’ was a big bland slab of dull grey meat. Not flavoursome, not tender and NOTHING like the burgers they used to serve. The Chorizo is now a cheap substitute for what used to be wonderful juicy sausage of proper cooking Chorizo and the bun was dry and hard and the smattering of flour on top of it made it even harder to swallow. How utterly disappointing. The fact that the staff STOMP around like elephants on the wooden floors make it feel like you are at the summit of an earthquake, which does little to make you feel better. It…
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Link to this reviewMay 2010 | | Overall: | 4 |
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| Food and Drink: | 4 |
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| Service: | 4 |
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| Atmosphere: | 6 |
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| Value for Money: | 5 |
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Royal China (13 Queensway, London, W2 4QJ) Simply put the BEST DIM SUM in all of London and in fact, even better than Hong Kong. Even my friends from Hong Kong say it is better and I couldn't agree more. Some people favour the Baker Street branch, but I have been a devotee of Queensway for the best part of two decades and for very good reason. The food is simply wonderful. It's no secret that Royal China dim sum is so good that they actually supply most of London's Chinese restaurants with their fare, but they seem to keep the best for themselves, ensuring they remain a cut above the rest. The A La Carte menu offers lots of beautifully executed exotic dishes like Abalone, Jellyfish and some of the best crispy duck I have ever had… Another of the house specials is the Lobster and spring onion crispy noodles, which is really delicious. Its not the cheapest Chinese restaurant, but it is not overpriced and you get what you pay for. It is most definitely a cut above the rest and having eaten in China towns across the globe, as well as both Hong Kong and Beijing, I find it difficult to equal the quality and variety of delicious dishes served at this branch of Royal China. Service can be a tad brusque at times, but it is still very efficient.
Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 9 |
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| Food and Drink: | 9 |
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| Service: | 7 |
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| Atmosphere: | 8 |
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| Value for Money: | 8 |
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Bengal Clipper (11-12 The Cardamom Building, London, London, SE1 2YR) The menu is vast, but is disappointingly not as ‘Bengali’ as I had hoped, however there is plenty to suit all tastes from the softer coconut-laden Keralan specialties of Southern India to the more robust dishes of the North. I admittedly played it safe to begin with opting for a ‘Clipper Treat’ which is a selection of Tandoor cooked meats, including duck, chicken, diced lamb, fish and lamb mince kebabs, which although pleasant enough, were not overly impressive. Some meats were more tender than others, but I think it was my companion’s starter choice that was more of a let down. Curiously named ‘Mushroom Lollipops’ – the name alone being enough to put me off really – and at first sight were as far removed from their comically-named descriptive as they could possibly hope to be. Three bulbous, deep-fried, paneer-stuffed button mushrooms, with very little flavour, did nothing to excite my palate I’m afraid. I was left confused as to the ‘Lollipop’ reference as I was expecting to see a lolly stick with a mushroom on the end of it. Personally I hate it when food is given funny little names, if something is truly good, then there is no need to give it a cutesy label. I began by trying the ‘Chefs Special’ chicken curry, which looks suspiciously neon in colour and although not lacking in flavour by any means, is like a spicier version of chicken tikka masala, yet with that familiar, almost ketchuppy, after-taste. The chicken breast was cut into thin strips, making it more chewy than tender. Not bad overall, but not something I would necessarily feel compelled to order in the future. My Sathkari Gosht looks enticing and my first mouthful is of tender lamb with a fiercely bitter lime after-taste, than was a tad too intense and just overpowered the other components of the dish. However the aubergine dish was very nice, not overly spiced and a great accompaniment to the meal. The Dal Tarka, whilst rich, creamy and brimming with well spiced black lentils, had an unappetising ‘film’ on…
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Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 7 |
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| Food and Drink: | 6 |
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| Service: | 6 |
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| Atmosphere: | 6 |
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| Value for Money: | 6 |
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Tamarind (20 Queen Street, London, W1J 5PR) Tamarind is definitely an ‘Old-Money’ joint and the interior design seems carefully deliberated over and not just conjured up to keep up with whatever trend was cool at the time. Our waiters are all dressed in slick black Nehru jackets and seem to glide effortlessly across the floor in ghost-like fluid motions. To begin, we start with of assortment of grilled delights from the Tandoor oven. Giants prawn, ‘double’ lamb chops, tender chicken breast, enormous scallops and wonderful chunks of Monkfish. The prawns were meaty and delicious, coated in a lightly spiced marinade and charred to perfection. The chicken, scallops and Monkfish were all excellent examples of Tandoor-oven cooking, expertly cooked and beautifully seared on the outside but retaining all the succulence and moisture on the inside. The lamb was definitely my favourite, crusted in a marinade made with Indian paneer cheese, which gave it the most wonderful velvety-smooth coating and allowed the meat itself to remain incredibly moist and soft, so much so it was hard to believe that it was cooked in the searing temperatures of a Tandoor oven. We follow with chicken Biryani, Kashmiri lamb shank, Kalonji aubergines and a basket of naan filled with dates and almonds. The Biryani is sealed with a layer of golden puff pastry to help steam cook the rice and chicken inside and the flavours were simply incredible and the chicken itself was juicy and moist, which I must admit was surprising considering it was breast meat and overall it was a huge hit. The meat from our lamb shanks were expertly taken off the bone at our table by our waiter. The lamb slivers were delicately spiced with Kashmiri chillies, bearing all the super-soft, gelatinous meaty goodness that you would expect from a slow-cooked lamb shank, enrobed in a rich and fragrant tomato and chilli sauce that was so thick and wonderful it was more like a chutney and was a perfect accompaniment to the lamb. The aubergine dish was also great, but could not be placed…
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Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 9 |
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| Food and Drink: | 9 |
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| Service: | 9 |
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| Atmosphere: | 8 |
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| Value for Money: | 8 |
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Chutney Mary (535 King's Road, London, SW10 0SZ) Chutney Mary is a stalwart of the Kensington and Chelsea culinary scene and is most definitely not your average local curry house. With a sleek interior, bejewelled wall-mounted tapestries and a cluster of plush booth underneath a leafy exotic oasis of palm trees, you could easily be forgiven for thinking were in some far off corner of India, instead of Kings Road. I order the Haleem, Nizami Kebabs and Scallops to begin with. Haleem is a slow cooked lamb dishes made with broken wheat and yoghurt that cooks down to a sticky and delicious consistency that begs to be served with some good naan bread. It is a very special dish indeed and I could quite easily eat a whole plate of it and nothing else. Nizami kebabs are long spicy minced lamb kebabs, moist and piquant with an accompanying chilli sauce. The scallops, taken from their classic menu, come with a saffron-infused coconut sauce and a fiery red chilli sauce giving it the gentle kick it needs. We go onto have Hyderabadi Lamb Biryani, with Mangalore prawns, Goan green chicken curry and even get to try goose ‘Galwati’ patties. Biryanis are one of my favourite Indian dishes and this one doesn’t disappoint. Huge chunks of tender, spiced lamb amongst buttery and perfectly cooked rice, with a delicate layering of chilli and no doubt a myriad of other spices. The Goan green chicken curry reads much like a Thai green curry, with coriander, chillies and coconut, but it puts the Thai version to shame. Richer in flavour, bolder in depth of spice and a vibrant emerald green in colour with coriander and I also detect a hint of fenugreek too. Giant Mangalore prawns arrive in a spicy tamarind, tomato and coconut sauce, meaty prawns cooked to perfection and every mouthful a real pleasure. When it comes to dessert, Indian food always falls short of the glory it achieves with it’s savoury offerings, however one particular dish on the menu catches my attention and I just have to have it…. beetroot Halwa Tart. “Beetroot?” You ask? Yes…
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Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 9 |
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| Food and Drink: | 9 |
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| Service: | 9 |
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| Atmosphere: | 9 |
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| Value for Money: | 8 |
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LayaLina (2-3 Beauchamp Place, London, SW3 1NG) We arrive at 7:30pm and the restaurant is empty. I always find it a little uncomfortable when you are the only two diners in a restaurant,.Staff switch on the music and it looks like things could be moving into ‘full swing’ mode. But, Sade?… in a Lebanese restaurant? I like Sade… I can live with Sade. But what I can’t quite seem to live with, is the contrasting thumping bar music coming from the restaurant's bar, adjacent. It is like watching TV and listening to the radio at the same time. Staff are friendly though and we order starters of ‘Baba Ghanoush’ – a dish made with smoked aubergine pulp, garlic and tahini paste, ‘Muhamara’ – spiced and pureed pine nut dip and ‘Jawaneh’ – garlic and coriander marinated chicken wings. The Baba Ghanoush definitely didn’t disappoint and was delicate and creamy with a deep smokiness from the aubergine which was excellent. The Muhamara I could have actually finished quite happily all by myself, although in my experience, good Muhamara should always have a bit of a kick of chilli heat from it and this was quite mellow and sweet, but still very enjoyable. The Jawaneh chicken wings are a disappointment. I’m not certain that they are entirely ‘hot off the grill’ so to speak. The flavour of the marinade was pleasant enough, but the skin was flabby and unpleasant, rather than crispy as it should be and the meat itself has an unpleasant aftertaste. Next we order ‘Prawn Machbous’ – King prawns in a spicy tomato sauce with mixed vegetables and saffron rice, ‘Mixed Grill’ – marinated chunks of both lamb and chicken with a lamb chop and mixed vegetables and finally ‘Farooj Chicken’ – Boneless baby chicken marinated with garlic, coriander and lemon dressing. The mixed grill is pretty good, plump and juicy pieces of well-marinated meat and chicken are both tender and juicy, albeit that the marinade for the chicken is a bit too sweet for my liking, but nothing too offensive. The Prawn Machbous is truly great and definitely my favourite dish of them…
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Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 6 |
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| Food and Drink: | 6 |
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| Service: | 7 |
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| Atmosphere: | 5 |
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| Value for Money: | 5 |
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Galvin at Windows (London Hilton, 22 Park Lane, London, London, W1K 1BE) Watching over London town, Galvin at Windows is situated on the 28th floor of the prestigious London Hilton on Park Lane hotel. The restaurant and bar are dimly lit and the décor is luxurious but tastefully so. Luckily having secured a window table, we are free to gaze over the lights of London by night whilst nibbling on fresh bread and olives and sipping on champagne. The wait staff are all immaculately attired and refreshingly attentive. Although excited, I await my starter of seared scallops with pumpkin puree, wild chicory, pomegranate, smoked bacon and maple vinaigrette – which to be perfectly honest sounds like it has a little too much going on. But needless to say arrives as a beautifully plated dish of delicate scallops adorned with a myriad of colour from ruby-like droplets of fresh pomegranate seeds scattered on top of big fat scallops, which were cooked to devastating perfection. My main course of venison fillet with Savoy cabbage, Parmentier potatoes and a cocoa and cabernet sauvignon reduction is superb, even more so because of the addition of a wonderful miniature ‘Shepherds pie’ made with confit shoulder of venison topped with an elegant piping of creamy mashed potato. Very rarely do I want to cry because a dish is so good, but this is one such time – Heavenly. No more, no less. The dish seems to encapsulate the best of both culinary worlds for me with the class and refined sophistication of the fillet of venison, paired with the more homely comfort food offering of Shepherds pie, it’s a double whammy of absolutely flawless perfection. At this point I am utterly stuffed, but never too stuffed to continue the experience, it must be said but regardless, I opt to share a pre-dessert cheese plate and what I do like about Galvins is that they have not abandoned the traditions of Grandeur that some restaurants seem to have dispersed these days, so when you order cheese, they wheel a huge cheese trolley your way and allow you to choose what you would like…
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Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 9 |
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| Food and Drink: | 10 |
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| Service: | 10 |
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| Atmosphere: | 10 |
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| Value for Money: | 8 |
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Bumpkin (102 Old Brompton Road, London, London, SW7 3RD) Bumpkin is a quirky cross-breed that combines the charm of a traditional country inn with the modern décor of a trendy city haunt. Having checked out the menu online, I had already honed in on what I was going to order. Wait a minute… where is my Lancashire Hotpot? Reduced menu on Saturday lunchtime? I sit back and sulk in my chair like a child and cannot contain my disappointment, I am beginning to regret skipping breakfast for this. The menu lists an all day full English breakfast as well as fish n’ chips and bangers and mash to name a few It’s going to take a lot more than that to tickle my taste buds and I begin to despair. Not exactly the full menu I had hoped for but we plump for a warming starter of onion soup with thyme, accompanied by lovely doorstep chunks of bread studded with caraway seeds. An ideal winter warmer, hitting the spot perfectly. For main course ‘Buccleuch’ pork chop with a side of mashed potatoes and curly kale with red wine gravy hits the spot and at first bite, the pork is juicy and tender and the fat, crisp and sticky as it should be. The mashed potatoes are smooth and creamy and the red wine jus is a perfect accompaniment to the dish. I nab a bite of my friends Welsh black beef burger and it is lovely and medium rare on the inside with a nice doughy bun and great chips (skin-on) with a garlicky mayonnaise dip. Service is good, a tad slow and the staff certainly are ‘characters’ to say the very least… But Bumpkin is a great place to head to ‘The morning after the night before’ – for a carb and comfort food-lead recovery. Can't imagine what kind of food they will offer over the summer, but they have quite a few Al Fresco tables which makes it worth the visit.
Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 7 |
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| Food and Drink: | 7 |
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| Service: | 6 |
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| Atmosphere: | 7 |
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| Value for Money: | 7 |
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Kenza (10 Devonshire Square, London, London, EC2M 4YP) Tall, exotic lamps stand like guards outside the heavy fortress-style wooden door. The interior reminds me of a cave, albeit a stylish cave with a descending staircase lit with warm candlelight. We begin the classic aubergine and tahini dip of Baba Ghannouj, which has a subtle smoky depth and a spike of lemon that balances the richness. ‘Makale Samak’ is next on our hit list, spicy sautéed squid served with a very moreish coconut and chill sauce followed by spicy ‘Soujoc’ lamb sausages, which are a Lebanese specialty. I like food that packs a punch flavour and Middle Eastern food rarely disappoints. The main course arrives and I try to tell myself that I’m not yet full, when secretly I am stuffed. But I have never let a silly thing like ‘appetite’ get in the way of a full-on feast and I’m certainly not about to start now. We opt for a modern Moroccan-inspired dish of pan-fried salmon fillet with a pomegranate glaze and a salad of cucumber and courgette, as well as the classic ‘Meshawy’ mixed grill platter of chunks of tender marinated chicken and lamb and a wonderfully spicy minced lamb kebab with a trace of cinnamon and a slight chilli kick, served with basmati rice, strewn with vermicelli strands. Simply delightful, but really doing nothing to ease my expanding waistband. But that’s what I like about Middle-Eastern food, you can eat and eat (and eat) until you can’t breathe any longer and then you follow it all with a mint tea chaser and suddenly you find room for dessert. What kind of bizarre trickery is this? I shall never understand. Kenza offers something that little bit different, which is just you need sometimes. The restaurant itself has an air of Souk-like fantasy which makes it a great place to escape the world, knock back a few Mezza washed down with some cocktails. I can see why it appeals to the City crowd so much, with very few exciting restaurants in area, Kenza stands out and perhaps deservedly so. The interior design alone is well worth a visit. Well……
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Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 8 |
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| Food and Drink: | 8 |
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| Service: | 8 |
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| Atmosphere: | 8 |
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| Value for Money: | 7 |
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Texture (34 Portman Street, London, W1H 7BY) We arrive at Texture and are shown to our table, a cosy little nook which overlooks the rather interesting ‘open’ plating area. Chunky rustic bread, a wafer-thin assortment of deep fried miscellany and an amuse bouche of creamy pea mousse are just some of the treats we begin our meal with. Chef Agnar Sverrisson has arranged for a tasting of the some of the best dishes on the menu and so the coming courses are very much an exciting mystery as yet. The first course of beetroot, goat’s cheese with rocket and balsamic vinegar and chervil ice cream is a palate of vibrant colour. The dish is wonderfully simple with clean flavours and the added interesting element of chervil ice cream, which works perfectly with against the sweetness of the beetroot. Our fish course is a classic salute to Scandinavian cuisine, with organic salmon ‘Graflax’ (the Icelandic spelling for ‘Gravadlax’) cured with a delicate coating of herbs and pepper with an accompanying horseradish sauce and tiny little pieces of broken rye bread, which is entirely scrumptious. This is the kind of dish I could eat forever with batting an eyelid. Next up, comes a signature dish of char-grilled English Quail, with sweetcorn, shallot, bacon popcorn and red wine essence. One does often wonder how a Chef decides to put certain ingredients together, but no one component is less appealing because of another. The quail is tender and sweet and the kernels of sweetcorn burst in my mouth releasing their juice, complimenting the salty bacon. A tad confused about what I should be doing with the popcorn, I simply pop them in my mouth once I have finished everything else. Our next course is char-grilled grain-fed beef rib eye with Ox cheek, served with horseradish and an olive oil Béarnaise. “Olive oil Béarnaise, you say?” – Yes, because interestingly, Texture do not use cream or butter in their cooking and as written on the menu it is actually a ‘B”arnaise’ sauce, rather than your garden-variety Béarnaise. The beef is meltingly…
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Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 8 |
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| Food and Drink: | 8 |
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| Service: | 8 |
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| Atmosphere: | 7 |
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| Value for Money: | 7 |
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Mangal 1 (10 Arcola Street, London, London, E8 2DJ) If stylish interiors and fancy food are what you are after, then you may as well turn round and leave. But if you are seeking out the best damned Turkish grills in London, then Mangal 1 is definitely your best bet. Essentially, it is a little hole-in-the-wall in the backstreets of Hackney, which is a tad ‘off the beaten track’. The restaurant is modest decorated and the sometimes overpowering fumes of searingly hot open charcoal grill which is positioned smack-bang in the main part of the dining room. This may cause you to smell a bit ‘BBQ-ey’ when you leave, but if you are a true carnivore, then this shouldn't pose as a deterrent to you as there is simply no other place better than this for you to gorge yourself on tender chunks of chargrilled meat and poultry just bursting with juice and smoky flavour imparted through the authentic grill cooking. The mixed grill, for a voracious carnivore like myself, is effectively the only way to go when choosing what to eat. I like the variety, the quantity and the different flavours and textures in this dish. I usually order some bread on the side as well as a few of the traditional side dishes such as Cacik yoghurt and a lovely smoky aubergine salad dish. Behold the beast-like behameth platter of meat containing chicken wings, chicken chunks, minced lamb kebabs, lamb chops and lamb chunks all piping hot off the grill, seared to perfection and mouthwateringly good. It really is great value as it is incredibly cheap and the quality of the grills and food are excellent. Don't go here expecting bend-over-backward friendly customer service, whilst they are never rude, they just aren't very chatty either. Cannot wait to go back!
Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 9 |
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| Food and Drink: | 10 |
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| Service: | 7 |
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| Atmosphere: | 7 |
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| Value for Money: | 9 |
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Galvin La Chapelle (St Botolphs Hall, 35 Spital Square, London, London, E1 6DY) I was quite surprised to read the mixed reviews for this much-acclaimed new opening for the Galvin brothers. I have always been a big fan of Galvin at Windows although I accept that it is, perhaps, not to everyone's taste. I guess its a marmite thing, in the fact that you either ‘love it or hate it’. I always find that the food at any Galvin establishment is always beautifully executed and so I struggle to digest people's reviews saying certain dishes at La Chapelle were unspecial, because simplicity is exactly what they do so very well. Having said that, often what we refer to as ‘simple’ is not always reflective of the labour involved in creating these perceived to be simple dishes. There is no denying that La Chapelle is an absolutely stunning restaurant. It isn't trying to be trendy, it isn't trying to be glamourous, but it does have ‘old-world’ charm and an effortless sophistication that no matter how hard you try, cannot purposely be engineered these days. It is a comfortable style and elegance combined with faultless service and a smooth experience from start to finish that really makes these rare little gems so wonderful. I chose the Dorset crab lasagne to start with that was a delicate tower of sweet crab meat bound with egg layered between fresh pasta sheets, nestled in a veloute of chanterelle mushrooms that was smooth and creamy and very moreish. For main course, I chose the absolute last thing I would EVER choose in a restaurant… CHICKEN. This is how much faith I have in the Galvins to deliver a good dish, because I almost always choose meat or fish in restaurants, heck even vegetarian mains over chicken… Supreme of Landaise chicken with an abundance of plump Morel mushrooms, vibrant green peas and aromatic crispy shards of fried Jambon cru – an incredible amalgamation of salty ham, sweet pea, succulently moist chicken breast with the luxurious flavour of those oh-so-special Morel mushrooms that perfume the light cream sauce. Desserts are never my thing, but…
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Link to this reviewApril 2010 | | Overall: | 9 |
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| Food and Drink: | 8 |
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| Service: | 9 |
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| Atmosphere: | 8 |
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| Value for Money: | 7 |
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