Sonny's Kitchen (94 Church Road, London, London, SW13 0DQ) Sonny's has long been my default favourite but we had not been for quite a while, until last Friday: it was hugely disappointing and sad to see a much loved restaurant produce such lack-lustre, uninspired, unappetising and poorly presented food. Usually, reading the menu at Sonny's is a feast and making a choice difficult but not this time. I had a fois gras ‘schnitzel’ on a confit of onion with a fried quail egg on top: it was yuckily fatty from the overdose of melted butter that it had been cooked in and the cloyingly sweet onion confit in combination was enough to make one gag. Next up I had a fish dish that was unremarkable verging on the tasteless (the woman at the adjoining table described the same dish as ‘disgusting’ to the manager), followed by an unremarkable apple tarte tatin. My husband's choices were no better – it was food and nothing more, saved from being a disaster by pleasant service. We will not go back until they change the chef (sorry, make that the ‘short order cook’) they presently have in the kitchen. If the likes of Kensington Place can serve imaginative, great food at the same prices as Sonny's, there is no excuse for a poor execution of a poor menu , presented with no style whatsoever. Philippa
Link to this reviewApril 2009 |