I keep coming back to Patterson's for its understated elegance, the friendly and efficient service, the fabulous competence of the cooking and the great wine list. It's December 2011, and I was tempted by the pork belly, which was golden, crisp and crackly on the top, succulent underneath, all the fat having melted away in the slow roasting process. So perfect, I nearly shed a tear of appreciation. The pork was served with black pudding and seared scallops, apple mashed potato, with a spiced carrot sauce. As a starter, I had followed Mrs P's recommendation and had the smoked haddock soufflé, which was served with a tiny jug of hot creamy chive wine sauce sauce and a cod brandade served as a little fritter, with a fried quail egg on the top, nice and runny in the middle. The presentation is beautiful and the flavour combinations heavenly. The Marlborough Pinot Noir, also recommended by Mrs P, was a light enough accompaniment not to dominate. My Scandinavian dining companion had the crab and scallop lasagne and nearly had to be restrained from licking the plate.

Whether you're heading for a business lunch or dinner in the West End, or trying to impress the prospective parents-in-law, Patterson's is a sure bet.